I recently made the observation – not particularly earth-shaking – that the shape of the human shoulder is somewhat similar to the shape of the heel. A bit round yet knobby, a bit protruding, both serving the function of joining parts of the body at roughly a right angle. Human experience being what it is, I doubt I am the first to notice this, but I am not aware of much discussion in the knitting literature which gives the shoulder the same sort of attention to precise fit and shaping as is given to sock heels (other than, perhaps, the Faroese shawl, which incorporates distinctive shaping in the shoulder area).
Sleeves, yes. Sleeves get a lot of attention. Sleeve caps. Sleeve style and shaping. Sewn-in sleeves vs. knitted in sleeves. Top down vs. bottom up. The discussion always gets around to problems with fit in the various styles of sleeve shaping. Occasionally I will see an offhand mention of the possibility of using increases, decreases or short rows to refine the shape in the shoulder, without specifics. (If anyone reading this knows of resources that do discuss this, please point them out to me.)
It is not an accident that a classic set-in sleeve has the best fit. It is the only one that takes into account the curve of the shoulder. When the sleeve cap is eased into the armscye, it creates a shoulder-shaped bulge where needed. Other sleeve styles – raglan, dolman, dropped shoulder, etc. – let an essentially flat piece of fabric droop as needed over the shoulder, leaving excess folds to pile up below.
I am what sweater knitters seem to like to call “curvy”, the excess poundage being a legacy of years spent taking care of everyone but myself. (No comments about that please. I’ll deal with my issues in my own time.) With ample upper arms hanging alongside a generous bust, the last thing I need is extra folds of fabric in the vicinity of my armpit adding even more heaviness to my appearance. But I would like to be free to incorporate the style lines and ease of knitting of the raglan or dropped shoulder sleeve without reproach. I don’t have an answer yet but a vision is forming, and it seems to pivot around the recognition of the similarities of the shoulder to the heel. What if, regardless of the sleeve type, a three-dimensional approximation of the shoulder itself were made part of the design as well?
Hmmmmm……..
A la Kisala 